Capirona, a small Quichua accommodate the ecotourist’s
community in the rainfor- desire for an “authentic”
est of eastern Ecuador, sur- experience, the Capirona vil-
vived over the years by grow- lagers built a small tourist
ing subsistence crops and a lodge and dining area in the
few acres of maize and cof- traditional grass-and-bamboo
fee which it sold in the mar- style, even though most local
ket towns upriver. When families aspire to live in tin-
local maize prices fell in the roofed, cinder-block struc-
late ‘i9805, the community tures. Similarly, the visitors’
had to come up with another cabana at Capirona is lit by
means of economic survival. candle, while electrical gener-
Already bombarded by a ,, ators are used for village steadv influx of tourists
– —F functions. The Quichua are a
brougkt in by uninvited tour rhr”
guides, the community decid- ‘Om
ed to establish its own eco- tourism project.
The Capirona project is one of the world’s first communally-
based, indigenous-operated
eco-
tourism initiatives. Villagers offer outsiders a window onto their culture: they guide visitors through the forest, explain local plant use, demonstrate how tra- ditional crafts are made, and perform traditional dances. Community members administer the program themselves: they manage the accounts, determine how much to charge, decide what groups to receive and when, and most importantly, decide together how to spend the profits. The villagers set careful limits on the type and number of visi- tors. These limits minimize dis- ruption to the community and damage to the environment. Prospective visitors must accept a comprehensive set of condi- tions-from the lack of running water to prohibitions against nude bathing and gifts to indi- viduals. No outsiders are allowed during certain periods so that villagers have time for their nor- mal routines. Ecotourism projects like that at Capirona generate income for
kan G. Colvm 1s thp director of th~ Untver~~t~/ Rpsearch Ex~editions
Pro-
oram at fhf Unr~ersitv of Californra at
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indigenous communities while at the same time preserving the rainforest that these communi- ties value so highly. The Capirona project validates traditional knowledge; indeed, visitor inter- est has generated a revival of traditional crafts. The project has supported families by providing local jobs, facilitated cultural exchange, and preserved indige- nous stewardship of the land. It has also created a network of international support among the individuals and groups that have visited Capirona.
These benefits, of course, come at a price. The influx of tourists puts pressure on the environ- ment. For instance, Capirona vil- lagers and visitors use the river both as a source of drinking water, and for washing and bathing. This increases the risk of river-water contamination. Vil- lagers also cut down trees to feed the fires that are built sev- eral times daily to purify drinking water for visitors and to clear areas for visitor facilities. Waste disposal
is another ever-present problem for the community. In addition to the ecological concerns, the social impact of ecotourism is fraught with ambi- guity. lndigenous communities such as Capirona are exposed to visitors with far greater material wealth, different values, and usually extremely limited knowl- edge of the local culture. To
,; private people. Tourist inter- est forces them to resolve questions like whether to open their homes to visitors, share their knowledge of medicinal plants, or involve visitors in
sacred rituals.
D espite these concerns, inter- est in ecotourism is growing among Ecuador’s indigenous peoples. Recently,
23 communi- ties organized an ecotourism organization under the umbrella of the provincial Federation of National lndigenous Organiza- tions (FOIN). The national Con- federation of lndigenous
Ama-
zonians (CONFENIAE) now has an ecotourism staff position. The country’s ecotourism programs are, however, still predominantly run by large national and inter- national companies without
indigenous representation. And the encroachment of oil companies looms on the hori- zon. While promoting
eco-
tourism, the government clearly prizes oil development. The cur- rent government
is actively encouraging oil exploration in Napo and Pastaza provinces. Ecotourism will never be as profitable as oil development, but it can serve as one prong of a diversified, sustainable econo- my. For ecotourism to play a role in preserving local economies and cultures, indigenous people themselves must be in control of the process and receive an equi- table share of the benefits.
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